Podcast: Chicken Bonne Femme
Chicken Bonne Femme is a classic Creole dish that dates back to the 19th century. The basic idea is chicken served with fried potatoes. Over time, chefs in New Orleans developed variations on the basic theme, such as Chicken Clemenceau at Galatoire's, Tujagues or Antoine's, or Chicken Pontalba from Brennan's on Royal Street.
The Recipes: Chicken Bonne Femme, Chicken Clemenceau Delmonico, Chicken Pontalba
Chicken Bonne Femme
Recipe from Tom Fitzmorris, this one is representative of the dish as served at Antoine's or Tujagues. Add more garlic to accurately represent the Tujagues version.
Ingredients 4 slices bacon, cut into 1 inch squares
2 chickens, about 3 1/2 lbs., quartered
2 Tbs. flour
1/2 cup ham, cut into tiny dice
1 cups chopped green onion tops
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms
1 cup dry white wine
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp. Tabasco
2 lbs. white potatoes, peeled and diced
Vegetable oil for frying
1 stick butter
8 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Fry the bacon in a large skillet until crisp, then remove. Drain excess fat, leaving about a teaspoon. 2. Dust (don't dredge) chicken quarters lightly with flour. Raise the heat to high and brown the chicken pieces on all sides. Remove the chicken pieces and keep warm. 3. In the same pan saute the ham, green onions, and yellow onions until the latter turn translucent. Add mushrooms, wine, Worcestershire, and Tabasco, and bring it up to a boil. After a minute, lower to a simmer. 4. In a separate skillet, fry the potatoes in 390-degree oil until very lightly browned. Drain them well and add to the ham, onions, etc. (The bonne femme garnish.) 5. Continue simmering sauce until all of the liquid is absorbed; lightly stir to distribute ingredients. Remove from heat. 6. Heat the butter in a small saucepan until it starts bubbling. Lower the heat, skim the foam off, and add the garlic. Cook the garlic in the hot butter for about a minute. 7. Put the chicken pieces in a broiling pan. Spoon the bonne femme garnish over and between the chicken pieces. Spoon the garlic butter over and salt and pepper the lot. Crumble the bacon over the top. 8. Put the pan into a preheated 400-degree oven and cook for 7-12 minutes. Turn the pieces, redistribute the sauce, and bake for another 5-7 minutes. If the white meat is cooked, remove it from the pan and keep warm. Continue cooking the leg quarters until the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced. Return the breasts to the mixture, and serve with lots of the garnish. Serves four.
Chicken Clemenceau Delmonico
From Emeril's Delmonico on St. Charles Avenue
* 1 fryer, about 3 1/2 pounds
* Drizzle of olive oil
* Salt
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tablespoon butter
* 1/2 pound Smithfield Ham, julienned
* 1/2 cup minced onions
* 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
* 1/2 pound assorted Exotic mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned and sliced
* 1/2 pound green peas
* 1/2 pound brabant potatoes (small diced blanched potatoes that are fried until golden)
* 3 tablespoons white vinegar
* 3 tablespoons white wine
* 10 peppercorns, crusted
* 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
* 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
* 3 egg yolks
* 1 cup unsalted butter, melted
* 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Season the chicken with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a roasting pan and bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees F. and continue to cook for 30 minutes. In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the ham and saute for 2 minutes. Add the onions. Saute for 1 minute. Add the garlic and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 2 minutes. Add the peas and potatoes. Saute for 3 to 4 minutes. In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, wine, peppercorns, shallots, and tarragon. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce to 1 tablespoon. Add 1 tablespoon of water. Add the egg yolks and whisk, over low heat, until frothy, about 3 to 4 minutes. In a steady stream, add the butter until the sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through a chinois and set aside. Remove the chicken from the oven and carve into 4 pieces (2 breast and 2 leg/thigh). To serve, spoon the potato mixture on the bottom of each plate. Lay the individual chicken portions on top of the potatoes. Spoon the Bernaise Sauce over the chicken and serve.
Yield: 4 servings
Chicken Pontalba
The Brennan's recipe, via www.gumbopages.com
* 2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup butter
* 3/4 teaspoon salt
* Dash of pepper
* Water for poaching
* 8 chicken breasts, boned, skinned and halved
* 4 tablespoons garlic, finely chopped
* 2 cups white onions, chopped
* 2 cups green onions, chopped
* 1-1/2 cups boiled ham, chopped
* 2 cups mushroom, sliced
* 1-1/2 cups diced potatoes, deep fried about 2 minutes
* 3 tablespoons parsley, chopped
* 3/4 cup white wine
* 3 cups Bearnaise sauce
In a large saute pan or skillet put in the 2 tablespoons butter, salt, pepper, and add about 1/4 inch water to the pan. Bring this poaching liquid to the boil, add breasts, cover, lower heat and simmer 15 minutes or until the breasts are done. With a slotted spoon remove the breasts and keep warm in 175 degree oven. Discard the poaching liquid.
In another sautepan or skillet, melt the remaining butter and saute the garlic, onions, ham and mushrooms until they are brown. Add the wine and reduce by one-third. Add fried potatoes and parsley and cook 2 minutes. Remove and keep warm in the oven.
To assemble the Pontalba, put 1/8 of the potato/ham mixture in the center of the plate. Place on each side of the mixture one half of a chicken breast. Top each breast with a generous amount of Bearnaise sauce.
Yield: 8 servings.

