Podcast: Creole Appetizers

Creole Appetizers are easy ways to really jazz up a simple meal. They often require minimal preparation, but give maximum effect on the table.

Shrimp Bread, Crawfish Carolyn, Stuffed Mushrooms Dominique Youx, Shrimp and Andouille Cheesecake.

The podcast

The Recipes:

Shrimp Bread
PREP TIME: 45 Minutes
SERVES: 4–5
INGREDIENTS:

* 2 cups of peeled shrimp
* 1 loaf French bread
* 1/2 stick butter
* 1/2 cup onions, chopped
* 1/2 cup celery, chopped
* 1/4 cup red bell pepper, chopped
* 1 tbsp garlic, minced
* 1/2 tsp dry mustard
* 1/2 cup mayonnaise
* 1/3 cup mozzarella cheese
* 1/3 cup cheddar cheese

METHOD:
Cut top off of French bread. Scoop inside out of loaf and set aside. In a large skillet, melt butter and cook onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic and shrimp for 15 minutes. Add dry mustard and mayonnaise. Mix all together, then mix in all cheeses and blend until melted. Put shrimp mixture into bread. Butter top and wrap in foil. Bake on barbecue pit or in 350°F oven for about 20–30 minutes. Cut into slices and serve.

Note: May substitute crawfish for shrimp. (this substitution gives you something close to JazzFest's "Crawfish Bread")

Crawfish Carolyn
This dish comes from the menu of Christian's Restaurant, although it's been quite a few years and I'm not sure if they still serve it. It's still mighty good, though, and quite rich. You can vary the amount of cayenne pepper to suit your own palate; be careful not to overdo it, but the cream will help take the bite off it somewhat.

* For the cream sauce:
* 3 cups heavy whipping cream
* 2 cups shellfish stock or water
* 1/4 cup brandy
* 1 cup grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese (or domestic Parmesan, but for God's sakes don't use that crap from the green can)
* 1-1/2 cups blonde roux (3/4 cup oil, 3/4 cup flour)

* For the crawfish:
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 1/2 small onion, chopped finely
* 1/4 green bell pepper, chooped finely
* 1/2 stalk celery, chopped finely
* 3 cloves garlic, minced
* 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
* 1/4 cup green onion, thinly sliced
* 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)
* 1/2 to 1-1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper (to your taste)
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
* 1 pound crawfish tails

Heat the cream with the stock or water, then add the cheese and brandy and bring to a boil. Stir in the roux and simmer for 15 minutes; keep warm.

Heat the butter in a skillet, then add the finely chopped onions, garlic, bell pepper and celery. Sauté for about 5 minutes until soft, translucent and fragrant. Add the crawfish, salt, thyme, red and black peppers. Cook uncovered for about 5 minutes, then mix in the cream sauce.

Divide the crawfish mixture into four small gratin dishes, then top with more grated Parmesan cheese. Place under the broiler for a minute or so until the top gets slightly browned and bubbly, and serve immediately.

YIELD: 4 servings.

Stuffed Mushrooms Dominique Youx
PREP TIME: 45 Minutes
SERVES: 6

COMMENT:
Dominique Youx, a notorious general for Jean Lafitte—some say his half brother—went on to become one of New Orleans' leading politicians. He was quite a cook, and this recipe is dedicated to his memory.

INGREDIENTS:

* 24 jumbo fresh mushrooms
* ¼ pound melted butter
* 1½ cups chopped mushroom stems
* ½ cup finely diced green onions
* ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
* 1 tbsp finely diced garlic
* ¼ cup diced tasso
* ¼ cup diced red bell pepper
* ¾ cup white crabmeat
* 1 ounce sherry
* 1 tsp lemon juice
* Salt and black pepper
* Louisiana Gold Pepper Sauce
* ½ cup seasoned Italian bread crumbs
* ¼ pound melted utter
* 4 ounces sherry
* 2 ounces dry white wine

METHOD:
Preheat oven to 450ºF. Wash mushrooms well and remove stems. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add mushroom stems, green onions, parsley, garlic and red bell pepper. Sauté until vegetables are wilted, approximately 3-5 minutes. Add white crabmeat, sherry and lemon juice. Continue cooking an additional 2-3 minutes. Season mixture to taste using salt, pepper and Louisiana Gold. Add bread crumbs, a little at a time, until stuffing is of proper texture but not too dry. Using a teaspoon, fill each mushroom cap with generous serving of stuffing. Place 6 mushrooms in each of 6 au gratin dishes and top with melted butter, sherry and white wine. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until mushrooms are golden brown.

Shrimp and Andouille Cheesecake
With Creole Mustard-Tomato Coulis,
from Emeril's Restaurant

Just one of the many culinary innovations created by Chef Emeril Lagasse (one of my heroes) is his penchant for taking sweet, dessert-type dishes and turning them into savory dishes. On his menu at Emeril's and NOLA, you'll see savory bread puddings, cheesecakes and sabayon sauces. Last time I dined at Emeril's I was hoping to see this dish on the menu, but I happily settled for the savory lobster cheesecake he offered that night.

I learned to make this by watching Chef Emeril make this on the brilliant "Great Chefs" TV show on PBS and taking copious notes, and lemme tell ya ... it's fantastic.

For the crust:

* 1 cup plain, unseasoned bread crumbs
* 1 cup Parmagiano Reggiano cheese, coarsely grated
* 1/4 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and slightly warm

Combine the cheese, bread crumbs and Creole seasoning in a bowl. Add the melted butter and mix together just until the butter is evenly incorporated and the mixture is moist. Spread around the bottom of a 9-inch springform cake pan, and press down with your hands to form the crust.

For the filling:

* 1 pound andouille, diced
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1 cup onion, chopped
* 1/2 cup green bell pepper, diced
* 1/2 cup red bell pepper, diced
* 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
* 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined and roughly chopped
* 1-1/2 pounds cream cheese, at room temperature
* 1-1/2 cups smoked Gouda cheese, grated
* 1/2 cup heavy cream
* 4 whole eggs, beaten
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* About 16 turns freshly ground black pepper

In a large skillet, sauté the andouille until slightly browned. Drain off the rendered fat, and reserve. In another skillet, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions, peppers and garlic until the onions are translucent, about 3 or 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and sauté lightly -- the shrimp will bake in the cheesecake, and you don't want them overcooked and tough. Add the andouille and incorporate.

In the bowl of a mixer (a nice KitchenAid makes this easy), mix the cream cheese, smoked Gouda cheese and cream. Use the paddle attachment and beat until smooth. Add the andouille-shrimp-vegetable mixture. Add the eggs and mix them in. Scrape down the sides of the bowl a couple fo times during mixing. Add the salt and pepper.

Pour into the springform pan over the crust. Prepare a bain marie in a baking dish with 1 inch of warm water, seal the bottom and sides of the pan with aluminum foil to prevent leakage, and set the pan in the bain marie. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 65 minutes, or until the cheesecake has set. It should be browned on the top and feel firm to the touch.

For the coulis:

* 1 teaspoon olive oil
* 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
* 2 tablespoons shallots, minced
* 8 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced, with their juice
* 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 3 tablespoons Creole mustard

In a saucepan, heat the olive oil and saute the garlic and shallot until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the Creole seasoning and Creole mustard, stir. Purée in a food processor or blender, and strain. Let cool to room temperature.

Presentation
Place a pool of about 1/4 cup coulis on each plate. Place a slice of cheesecake on the coulis. Sprinkle freshly chopped chives over and around the cake. Top the cheesecake with about a tablespoon of coarsely grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese. Garnish the back of the cheesecake slice with an edible flower, and place a few smaller edible flowers around the coulis. Sprinkle Creole seasoning around the rim of the plate. Enjoy!!

Serves 12.