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May 31, 2005

Cedar planks for grilling...

Going through some of my e-mail, I noticed a flyer from Williams-Sonoma. They sell cedar planks for grilling, four for $19.

These are perfect for doing Emeril's Cedar-Plank Trout.

Posted by YatPundit at 10:50 AM | Comments (3)

May 30, 2005

Podcast: Seafood Boils!

Seafood boils: Crawfish, Crab, and Shrimp!

A pot of boiled crawfish:

The Podcast

Resources:

www.louisianaseafood.com
www.zatarain.com

The Recipes

Easy Boiled Crawfish

4 gallons water
1 73 oz. jar of Zatarain's Pre-Seasoned Crab Boil
2 1/2 lbs. small new potatoes, scrubbed and unpeeled
8-10 ears corn
40 lbs. (1 sack) live crawfish
Pour live crawfish into a large tub and cover with water; drain and repeat 3 to 4 times until crawfish are clean. Drain off water. Remove and discard any dead crawfish and debris. In a very large (about 15-gallon) pot, combine the 4 gallons water and Zatarain's Pre-Seasoned Crab Boil. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil 5 minutes; add potatoes and cook 5 minutes and remove. Stir in crawfish and cover pot; return to boiling and add corn. Turn off heat and soak for 30 minutes. Drain and serve. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Boiled Crabs

Ingredients:
kettle
water
4 tbsp. Liquid crab boil
½ cup salt
½ cup vinegar
4 dozen beautiful, live, Louisiana blue crabs

Serves: 4
In your kettle, pour water, add crab boil, salt & vinegar and bring to a rolling boil. Add crabs. Bring to a rolling boil again and boil for 15 minutes. Turn off burner and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Remove crabs (remove basket or strainer), serve on trays, a dozen/tray. Traditionally, boiled crabs are eaten on picnic tables covered with newspaper.

Zatarain's Boiled Shrimp

3-4 lbs Shrimp (20-30 count)
4 Tbsp Salt
1 Tbsp Zatarain's Liquid Crab and Shrimp Boil
2 qt Water

To a large cooking container add 2 quarts water and salt. Bring to boil. Add shrimp and Zatarain's Liquid Crab and Shrimp Boil. Bring mixture to boil and cook for 2 minutes. Remove from fire and allow to soak 2 minutes. Drain and peel.

Posted by YatPundit at 10:15 PM | Comments (0)

May 28, 2005

Crabmeat Au Gratin

One of the neat aspects of Creole cooking is how easy it is to make a complex dish quickly. This one is a great example.

The finished dish, served with sauteed mushrooms and a small baked potato.

Crabmeat au Gratin

1/2 cup onion, chopped
1/2 bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup celery, chopped
1/4 cup green onion, chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tbsp flour
1 cup white wine
1 cup whole milk
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp tabasco
salt and white pepper to taste
1 pound lump crabmeat
1 cup cheddar cheese

saute the veggies in the olive oil until the onion is translucent. sprinkle the flour on top and blend in. Reduce heat Slowly stir in the white wine. Slowly stir in the milk. Add Worcestershire, Tabasco, salt, and white pepper. Mix well. Remove from heat and add the crabmeat, mixing it in well. Spoon the mixture into four individual ramekins. Sprinkle 1/4 cup of the cheese on top of each dish. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 350F.


Posted by YatPundit at 4:49 PM | Comments (0)

Beef Bourguignonne à la Bacchus photos

After doing the podcast last Monday on beef dishes, I decided to do the "Beef Bourguignonne à la Bacchus" recipe:

onions, green pepper, celery, chopped

diced bacon

a 1.6-pound sirloin, cubed

the sirloin cubes dusted with all-purpose flour

cooking the sirloin in the bacon grease

the veggies, wine, and stock are added to the meat. I used whole mushrooms because my teen's not a big mushroom fan, so it's easier for him to avoid them.

The finished product, served over broad egg noodles and a little eggplant au gratin on the side.

Posted by YatPundit at 4:35 PM | Comments (0)

May 23, 2005

It's "Red Beans and Rice

It's "Red Beans and Rice Monday" at YatPundit Podcast...

Grocery Stores in New Orleans (10:04, 8.5MB)

Reminiscing about grocery stores in New Orleans and first impressions of the new Whole Foods store at Severn and Veterans in Metairie.

Posted by YatPundit at 3:50 PM | Comments (0)

Podcast: Creole Beef

Beef! Creole Roast Beef for Po-boys, Beef Bourguignonne a la Bacchus, Beef Tenderloin with Pinot Noir Shallot Sauce.

The Podcast

The Recipes

Creole Roast Beef for Po-Boys
(from The Gumbo Pages)

* 1 beef shoulder roast, about 5 pounds
* 1/4 pound piece of salt pork, sliced into 1/4-inch strips
* 6 to 8 cloves garlic, minced
* 3 cups minced onion
* 1 tablespooon salt
* 1 teaspoon black pepper
* 1 tablespoon Creole seasoning blend
* 1/4 cup lard, bacon drippings or solid shortening (e.g., Crisco)
* 6 carrots, diced
* 6 ribs celery, sliced
* 1 tablespoon minced parsley
* 2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
* 1 cup good red wine
* 6 to 7 cups boiling water
* 2 beef marrow bones
* 2 to 3 quarts beef stock or water, boiling (but don't use water ... if you're going to go to all this trouble, MAKE THE STOCK!)

Cut a pattern of incisions across the top of the roast every couple of inches, each long and deep enough to hold a slice of salt pork. Combine half the garlic, 1 cup of the onion (mince this finely), 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/2 teaspoon of the black pepper, and push this mixture into the slits you've made for the salt pork. Press salt pork into the beef and tie it securely, trying to make the shape of the roast as even as possible for even cooking.

In a pot broad and deep enough to hold the roast with room to spare, melt the lard over medium heat. Brown the roast well all around, keeping the salt pork inside. Add all remaining seasonings, carrots, celery, parsley and thyme to the pot, cooking until the onions are limp. Add wine and enough boiling beef stock or water to nearly cover beef. Add bones. Cover pot and simmer 4 hours, until beef is very tender.

Remove beef from pot to another dish that will hold dripping juices. Raise heat under liquid and boil hard, uncovered, 45 minutes. While boiling down the gravy, baste the roast so it doesn't dry out.

Remove salt pork strips from beef and slice it as best you can (it will fall into chunks and shreds; the smaller you shred it, the more it'll be like the legendary "debris" from Mother's), putting the pieces into a separate serving or storage dish. Strain the gravy, season it to taste with salt, freshly ground pepper and optionally a small pinch or two of cayenne and pour it over the beef. There should be about a quart of gravy. The resulting mixture should be sloppy, luscious and profoundly beefy.

Serve on fresh, crisp crusted New Orleans-style French bread -- average po-boy size is at least nine inches. Make sure the French bread (a good baguette will do) is not chewy. The bread must be crispy on the outside and light on the inside.

YIELD: enough roast beef debris for about 10-12 good-sized poor boys.

Beef Bourguignonne à la Bacchus
From Chef John Folse

Prep Time: 2½ Hours
Yields: 6 Servings

Comment:
This recipe is typical of the country French techniques recreated in early New Orleans. As a tribute to Bacchus, the god of wine, Burgundy wine is used in this dish for both flavoring and tenderizing the meat.

Ingredients:
2½–3 pounds sirloin, cubed 1 inch
salt and black pepper to taste
1/3 cup flour
¼ cup vegetable oil
4 slices bacon, diced
2 cups diced onions
½ cup grated carrots
¼ cup minced garlic
1 cup sliced mushrooms
1 dozen pearl onions
3 cups Burgundy wine
4 cups beef broth
1 tbsp tomato paste
½ tsp dried thyme
1½ cups sliced green onions
¼ cup chopped parsley

Method:
Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large mixing bowl, season meat with salt and pepper. Coat well with flour, shaking off excess. In a cast iron Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sauté bacon 2–3 minutes or until golden brown, without burning bacon fat. Remove and keep warm. Add meat in 3 separate batches. NOTE: It is very important to add meat in separate batches to avoid overcrowding Dutch oven. Brown meat on all sides and allow it to caramelize in bottom of pot. Remove and keep warm. Sauté onions, carrots and garlic 3–5 minutes or until vegetables are wilted. Blend in mushrooms, pearl onions, wine, broth and tomato paste. Scrape bottom of pot to release caramelized flavor. Return meat to Dutch oven. Add bacon and thyme. Bring pot to a rolling boil, add green onions and parsley. Cover and place in preheated oven 2 hours or until meat is tender. Adjust seasonings if necessary, and serve over extra-wide egg noodles.

Beef Tenderloin with Pinot Noir Shallot Sauce
From Chef John Folse

PREP TIME: 1 Hour
SERVES: 16

COMMENT: Beef tenderloin is the richest and most tender cut of meat you can buy. We have dressed up this exquisite piece of meat with fresh thyme and caramelized shallots in a rich red wine sauce to push this dish over the edge of decadence.

INGREDIENTS:

* 1 (6-pound) beef tenderloin, trimmed
* 1 pound shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise
* 1 cup Pinot Noir wine
* 2 tbsps olive oil
* ¾ tsp salt
* ½ tsp pepper
* 1 tbsp salt
* 1½ tsps granulated onion
* 1½ tsps granulated garlic
* 1½ tsps pepper
* 1½ tsps chopped fresh thyme leaves
* ¼ cup olive oil
* 3 cups beef broth
* 2 tbsps all-purpose flour
* 3 tbsps water
* 3 tbsps butter
* ¼ tsp pepper

METHOD:
Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. Toss shallots and 2 tbsps oil in a bowl; stir in ¾ tsp salt and ½ tsp pepper. Set aside. Stir together 1 tbsp salt, onion powder, garlic powder, 1½ tsps pepper and thyme. Rub tenderloin with ¼ cup olive oil. Sprinkle seasoning mix over top and sides of tenderloin, rubbing to cover the entire loin. Place loin in a large greased roasting pan; arrange shallots around the loin. Bake uncovered for 20 minutes. Use meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of the loin, the loin is done when it reads 130 degrees F for medium rare or 145 degrees F for medium. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, stir together beef broth and Pinot Noir. Bring to a rolling boil and hold at a boil for 6-8 minutes or until liquid is reduced to 2 cups. Remove tenderloin to a serving platter and cover with aluminum foil; reserve shallots and drippings in pan. Add wine mixture to pan, and place over medium heat, stirring to release the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. In a small bowl, whisk together flour and water until smooth, then stir into the sauce in the roasting pan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until slightly thickened. Add butter, stirring just until melted. Stir in ¼ tsp pepper. Thinly slice roast and serve with shallot sauce. Garnish with whole sprigs of fresh thyme.

Posted by YatPundit at 2:55 PM | Comments (0)

May 16, 2005

Podcast: Creole Appetizers

Creole Appetizers are easy ways to really jazz up a simple meal. They often require minimal preparation, but give maximum effect on the table.

Shrimp Bread, Crawfish Carolyn, Stuffed Mushrooms Dominique Youx, Shrimp and Andouille Cheesecake.

The podcast

The Recipes:

Shrimp Bread
PREP TIME: 45 Minutes
SERVES: 4–5
INGREDIENTS:

* 2 cups of peeled shrimp
* 1 loaf French bread
* 1/2 stick butter
* 1/2 cup onions, chopped
* 1/2 cup celery, chopped
* 1/4 cup red bell pepper, chopped
* 1 tbsp garlic, minced
* 1/2 tsp dry mustard
* 1/2 cup mayonnaise
* 1/3 cup mozzarella cheese
* 1/3 cup cheddar cheese

METHOD:
Cut top off of French bread. Scoop inside out of loaf and set aside. In a large skillet, melt butter and cook onions, celery, bell pepper, garlic and shrimp for 15 minutes. Add dry mustard and mayonnaise. Mix all together, then mix in all cheeses and blend until melted. Put shrimp mixture into bread. Butter top and wrap in foil. Bake on barbecue pit or in 350°F oven for about 20–30 minutes. Cut into slices and serve.

Note: May substitute crawfish for shrimp. (this substitution gives you something close to JazzFest's "Crawfish Bread")

Crawfish Carolyn
This dish comes from the menu of Christian's Restaurant, although it's been quite a few years and I'm not sure if they still serve it. It's still mighty good, though, and quite rich. You can vary the amount of cayenne pepper to suit your own palate; be careful not to overdo it, but the cream will help take the bite off it somewhat.

* For the cream sauce:
* 3 cups heavy whipping cream
* 2 cups shellfish stock or water
* 1/4 cup brandy
* 1 cup grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese (or domestic Parmesan, but for God's sakes don't use that crap from the green can)
* 1-1/2 cups blonde roux (3/4 cup oil, 3/4 cup flour)

* For the crawfish:
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
* 1/2 small onion, chopped finely
* 1/4 green bell pepper, chooped finely
* 1/2 stalk celery, chopped finely
* 3 cloves garlic, minced
* 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
* 1/4 cup green onion, thinly sliced
* 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried)
* 1/2 to 1-1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper (to your taste)
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
* 1 pound crawfish tails

Heat the cream with the stock or water, then add the cheese and brandy and bring to a boil. Stir in the roux and simmer for 15 minutes; keep warm.

Heat the butter in a skillet, then add the finely chopped onions, garlic, bell pepper and celery. Sauté for about 5 minutes until soft, translucent and fragrant. Add the crawfish, salt, thyme, red and black peppers. Cook uncovered for about 5 minutes, then mix in the cream sauce.

Divide the crawfish mixture into four small gratin dishes, then top with more grated Parmesan cheese. Place under the broiler for a minute or so until the top gets slightly browned and bubbly, and serve immediately.

YIELD: 4 servings.

Stuffed Mushrooms Dominique Youx
PREP TIME: 45 Minutes
SERVES: 6

COMMENT:
Dominique Youx, a notorious general for Jean Lafitte—some say his half brother—went on to become one of New Orleans' leading politicians. He was quite a cook, and this recipe is dedicated to his memory.

INGREDIENTS:

* 24 jumbo fresh mushrooms
* ¼ pound melted butter
* 1½ cups chopped mushroom stems
* ½ cup finely diced green onions
* ¼ cup finely chopped parsley
* 1 tbsp finely diced garlic
* ¼ cup diced tasso
* ¼ cup diced red bell pepper
* ¾ cup white crabmeat
* 1 ounce sherry
* 1 tsp lemon juice
* Salt and black pepper
* Louisiana Gold Pepper Sauce
* ½ cup seasoned Italian bread crumbs
* ¼ pound melted utter
* 4 ounces sherry
* 2 ounces dry white wine

METHOD:
Preheat oven to 450ºF. Wash mushrooms well and remove stems. In a sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add mushroom stems, green onions, parsley, garlic and red bell pepper. Sauté until vegetables are wilted, approximately 3-5 minutes. Add white crabmeat, sherry and lemon juice. Continue cooking an additional 2-3 minutes. Season mixture to taste using salt, pepper and Louisiana Gold. Add bread crumbs, a little at a time, until stuffing is of proper texture but not too dry. Using a teaspoon, fill each mushroom cap with generous serving of stuffing. Place 6 mushrooms in each of 6 au gratin dishes and top with melted butter, sherry and white wine. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until mushrooms are golden brown.

Shrimp and Andouille Cheesecake
With Creole Mustard-Tomato Coulis,
from Emeril's Restaurant

Just one of the many culinary innovations created by Chef Emeril Lagasse (one of my heroes) is his penchant for taking sweet, dessert-type dishes and turning them into savory dishes. On his menu at Emeril's and NOLA, you'll see savory bread puddings, cheesecakes and sabayon sauces. Last time I dined at Emeril's I was hoping to see this dish on the menu, but I happily settled for the savory lobster cheesecake he offered that night.

I learned to make this by watching Chef Emeril make this on the brilliant "Great Chefs" TV show on PBS and taking copious notes, and lemme tell ya ... it's fantastic.

For the crust:

* 1 cup plain, unseasoned bread crumbs
* 1 cup Parmagiano Reggiano cheese, coarsely grated
* 1/4 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and slightly warm

Combine the cheese, bread crumbs and Creole seasoning in a bowl. Add the melted butter and mix together just until the butter is evenly incorporated and the mixture is moist. Spread around the bottom of a 9-inch springform cake pan, and press down with your hands to form the crust.

For the filling:

* 1 pound andouille, diced
* 1 tablespoon olive oil
* 1 cup onion, chopped
* 1/2 cup green bell pepper, diced
* 1/2 cup red bell pepper, diced
* 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
* 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined and roughly chopped
* 1-1/2 pounds cream cheese, at room temperature
* 1-1/2 cups smoked Gouda cheese, grated
* 1/2 cup heavy cream
* 4 whole eggs, beaten
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* About 16 turns freshly ground black pepper

In a large skillet, sauté the andouille until slightly browned. Drain off the rendered fat, and reserve. In another skillet, heat the olive oil and sauté the onions, peppers and garlic until the onions are translucent, about 3 or 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and sauté lightly -- the shrimp will bake in the cheesecake, and you don't want them overcooked and tough. Add the andouille and incorporate.

In the bowl of a mixer (a nice KitchenAid makes this easy), mix the cream cheese, smoked Gouda cheese and cream. Use the paddle attachment and beat until smooth. Add the andouille-shrimp-vegetable mixture. Add the eggs and mix them in. Scrape down the sides of the bowl a couple fo times during mixing. Add the salt and pepper.

Pour into the springform pan over the crust. Prepare a bain marie in a baking dish with 1 inch of warm water, seal the bottom and sides of the pan with aluminum foil to prevent leakage, and set the pan in the bain marie. Bake in a preheated 350F oven for 65 minutes, or until the cheesecake has set. It should be browned on the top and feel firm to the touch.

For the coulis:

* 1 teaspoon olive oil
* 1 tablespoon garlic, minced
* 2 tablespoons shallots, minced
* 8 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced, with their juice
* 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning
* 3 tablespoons Creole mustard

In a saucepan, heat the olive oil and saute the garlic and shallot until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the Creole seasoning and Creole mustard, stir. Purée in a food processor or blender, and strain. Let cool to room temperature.

Presentation
Place a pool of about 1/4 cup coulis on each plate. Place a slice of cheesecake on the coulis. Sprinkle freshly chopped chives over and around the cake. Top the cheesecake with about a tablespoon of coarsely grated Parmagiano Reggiano cheese. Garnish the back of the cheesecake slice with an edible flower, and place a few smaller edible flowers around the coulis. Sprinkle Creole seasoning around the rim of the plate. Enjoy!!

Serves 12.

Posted by YatPundit at 5:42 PM | Comments (0)

Supreme Court allows Interstate Wine Shipments

I listen a lot to NPR's "Morning Edition" on www.kpbs.org, since I'm running around so much before 9am. I can catch the show when it starts at 7am pacific time when I settle in to do work. This story is huge on the left coast this morning, because it opens up on-line wine sales to a much wider market than they've had before.

This decision is important for New Orleanians because Louisiana was one of the states with laws restricting mail-order wine purchases. Now we can buy from those little wineries and microbreweries you'd never see in the local wine shop.


Posted by YatPundit at 11:20 AM | Comments (0)

May 15, 2005

What's a Hubig's Pie?

(cross-posted from YatPundit)

I've noticed that people come to YatPundit occasionally because they Google the term "Hubig's Pies." When I originally wrote the subtitle of the blog as "Politics, Funky Music, and Hubig's Pies," I pretty much assumed that everyone knew what a Hubig's Pie was, or wouldn't really care.

Hubig's Pies are a fried turnover, originally created in Dallas by Simon Hubig. Hubig was a German immigrant who set up his first bakery in Dallas. When he saw the popularity of his hand-held fried pies, Hubig expanded operations into Houston, New Orleans, Birmingham, even into Illinois and Georgia. Simon Hubig's dreams of going national were crushed in the stock market crash of 1929. Hubig was forced to sell his all of his bakeries and warehouses except for the one in New Orleans. Hubig also had to take on a partner, which is how the Bowman family came to be the current owners of the bakery.

Hubig's makes three main items: hand-held fried pies, individual deep-dish pies, and nine-inch "family pies."

This is the classic fried Hubig's pie. It's cut from the same half-moon die they've used on Dauphine street for over 80 years. The pies are fried, smothered in sugar icing, packaged, and sent to over 3500 retail outlets in southern Louisiana. They come in a number of flavors, including apple, lemon, peach, pineapple, chocolate, cherry, coconut, blueberry, banana, blackberry and sweet potato.

In addition to the fried pies, Hubig's sells individual deep-dish baked pies. While not as popular (and only marginally healthier) than the fried pies, the deep-dish pies nonetheless have a strong following.

Mr. Hubig didn't start out thinking he would be the king of hand-held fried pies in the south. His original plan was to sell regular-sized "family" pies. The Dauphine St. factory still makes nine-inch pies in a number of flavors. These are served as dessert in a number of New Orleans restaurants, and are sold at many local groceries, as well as local Wal-Mart stores.

Posted by YatPundit at 9:52 PM | Comments (0)

May 10, 2005

dinner this evening...

Grilled pork chops, veggie fried rice and fresh asparagus. I marinated the chops in Lawrey's Honey Teriyaki marinade, then grilled for about 25 minutes, brushing the marinade on them as a grilling sauce. The rice is just a basic fried rice with some green onion, garlic, and bell pepper mixed in. Oh, and a little sechuan stir-fry sauce to spice it up. The asparagus were blanched for a couple of minutes and served as-is. I was gonna put a dollop of tabasco mayo on them, but resisted...

Posted by YatPundit at 10:28 PM | Comments (0)

May 9, 2005

Red Beans and Rice Monday: Review of Copeland's Cheesecake Bistro

The "short-format" podcast today is a quick review of Copeland's Cheesecake Bistro, both locations.

Posted by YatPundit at 11:37 PM | Comments (0)

Podcast: Creole Fish Dishes

Creole Fish Dishes:

Trout Meuniere
Trout Almondine
Catfish Pecan Meuniere
Trout or Pompano Pontchartrain
Pompano en Papillote
Cedar Plank Trout
Eggs St. Charles

The Podcast


The Recipes

Meuniere Sauce
* 1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
* 2 cups fish stock
* juice of 1/2 lemon
* 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
* Dash of Tabasco
* 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream
In a saucepan, melt the butter and cook until beginning to brown. Add the stock, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco. Add the cream and cook to reduce for 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and serve immediately.

Trout Almondine
Ingredients needed:
* 1 cup Worcestershire sauce
* 1/2 cup chopped yellow onions
* 2 bay leaves
* 2 lemons, peel and pith discarded and cut in half
* 3/4 cup heavy cream
* 1 stick plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chips
* 4 (6 to 8 ounces) trout fillets
* Creole Seasoning
* 1 cup flour
* 4 cups small diced white potatoes, peeled (about 1/2-inch by 1/2-inch)
* Salt
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
* 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
* 1/4 cup minced shallots
* 1/2 cup fine dried bread crumbs
* 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
* 1 cup sliced almonds
* 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves
Combine the Worcestershire, onions, bay leaves, and lemons in a medium-size saucepan over medium-high heat. Mash the lemons down with the back of a spoon and bring the mixture to a boil. Simmer until it has reduced and becomes slightly thick, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the cream and whisk to blend. Cook for 1 minute. Mount in the 1 stick of the butter, whisking constantly until it is completely melted and blended into the mixture. Strain through a sieve, set aside and keep warm. Season the trout and flour with Essence. Dredge the fish in the flour, coating each side completely. In a large saute pan, over medium heat, add 1/4 cup of the oil. When the oil in hot, add the fillets. Pan-fry for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Remove and drain on paper towels. In another saute pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add the shallots. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 1 minute. Add the garlic, potatoes, and bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 2 minutes. Stir in the MEUNIERE sauce. Continue to saute for 1 minute. Remove from the heat. In a another saute pan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the almonds and saute for 2 minutes. Stir into the Meuniere sauce. Remove from the heat and keep warm. To serve, spoon the potatoes in the center of each plate. Lay the fish directly on top of the potatoes. Spoon the sauce over the fish. Garnish with parsley.

Yield: 4 servings

Catfish Pecan Meuniere
Catfish Filets:
* 6 catfish filets, 5 to 7 ounces each
* 3 cups roasted pecans
* 1 cup fresh bread crumbs
* 1 cup seasoned flour (season with salt, black and red peppers)
* 3 eggs
* 1/2 cup milk
* Creole seasoning blend
* Olive oil
* Chopped parsley
Meuniere Sauce:
* 3 lemons, peeled and quartered
* 7 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
* 3 tablespoons Crystal hot sauce
* 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream (UK: single cream)
* 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
* 1/4 teaspoon salt
* 1/4 teaspoon white pepper
Preparing the meuniere sauce: In a large sauté pan combine the lemons, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and whipping cream. Blend with a wire whisk over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 3-4 minutes. As you stir, press gently on the lemon quarters to slowly release the juices. Slowly add the butter by pinching off a little bit at a time and squeezing it through your fingers into the sauce pan, stirring constantly (this is called mounting the butter). As you add the last of the butter, remove from heat and continue to stir. Taste, then season with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine strainer. The sauce is now ready to serve; cover and keep warm.
Preparing the catfish filets: Trim the fat and any rough edges off the catfish filets. Lightly season with Creole seasoning; place in refrigerator.
Grind 2-1/2 cups of the pecans and the bread crumbs together in a food processor. Place in a shallow pan or plate and set aside.
In a medium-sized bowl, make an egg wash by combining the 3 beaten eggs and 1/2 cup of milk. Set up a standard breading station on your table or counter top. Bread filets by first coating them with the seasoned flour, then placing each in the egg wash and then finally pressing each into the ground pecan/bread crumb mixture, making sure the entire filet is coated well. Refrigerate if you're unable to fry them immediately.
Using a large skillet or sauté pan, cover the bottom with olive oil, and heat. Gently place the fish into the hot oil. Cook until lightly brown, turn fish and repeat. If fish isn't cooked all the way through, place in a shallow baking pan in a 450°F oven for about 5 minutes.
To serve: Place one filet on the plate, drizzle with meuniere sauce, and top with the rest of the roasted pecans, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve with white rice and your favorite sautéed or steamed vegetables.
Yield: 6 servings

Pompano en Papillote
(this is a modified version of the classic from WWL-TV's website. It's a bit more heart-healthier)
4 fillets of flounder (or pompano, trout, or salmon), about 6 oz. each
2 Tbs. softened butter
1/2 cup green onions, green part only, thinly sliced
1/2 stalk celery, cut into matchsticks
4 tsp. fresh dill, snipped fine
1 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon, chopped
1 Tbs. lemon juice
2 Tbs. white wine
1/4 tsp. Tabasco jalapeno pepper sauce
Salt
Parchment paper

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
1. Cut the paper large enough to enclose the fish completely, with enough overlap to fold over to make a tight seal.
2. After washing the fish fillets and checking for bones, generously butter each fillet. Place them on the parchment paper. Top with the green onions, celery, dill, and tarragon.
3. Combine the lemon juice, white wine, and Tabasco. Sprinkle the mixture all over the fish. Add salt to taste.
4. Fold the paper over and fold the edges down hard, then fold down again to seal the pouch as securely as possible. Place the papillotes on a baking pan and place them in the center of the oven. Bake for 15-18 minutes (longer if the fish was thick).
5. Remove the papillotes from the oven and place on serving plates. Serve immediately with a sharp steak knife for opening the bags. The fish should be eaten right out of the bag. (On a plate, of course.)
Serves four.

Cedar Plank Trout
Ingredients needed:
* 2 untreated cedar shingles, about 5 1/2 X 10 inches each
* 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
* 2 trout fillets (8 to 10 ounces each)
* 1 teaspoon Rustic Rub
* 1/2 cup peeled and grated fresh horseradish root or drained bottled white horseradish
* 2 teaspoons grated orange zest
* 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1/4 teaspoon cayenne
* 2 teaspoon sugar
Prepare a grill and light the fire. Rub the side of each shingle with 1/2 teaspoon oil.
Season the fish on both sides with the rub. Place a fillet on each oiled shingle. Combine the horseradish, orange zest, lemon zest, salt, cayenne, and sugar in a small bowl. Divide the mixture into 2 equal portions and place on top of the fish.
Place the shingles in the center of a hot barbecue grill. Close the lid and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Remove the shingles from the grill using a long-handled spatula. If the shingles catch fire, sprinkle with a little water.
Put the shingles in the center of large platters to serve.
Yield: 2 servings

Eggs St. Charles
INGREDIENTS:
* 6 (5-8 ounce) trout fillets
* 1/2 cup vegetable oil
* 1 1/2 cups seasoned flour
* 2 tbsps olive oil
* 1 tbsp garlic, minced
* 1/4 cup Creole shallots, sliced
* 1/4 cup celery, diced
* 2 cups tomatoes, diced
* 1 cup tomato juice
* 1 cup tomato sauce
* 1 cup chicken stock
* 1 tsp thyme, chopped
* 1 tbsp basil, chopped
* 1 tbsp sugar
* salt and cracked black pepper to taste
* 12 poached eggs
METHOD:
In a 10-inch heavy-bottom sauté, heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Season trout fillets using salt and pepper and coat in the seasoned flour. Shake off all excess and sauté fillets in hot oil until golden brown, 3-5 minutes on each side. When done, remove and keep warm. In the same sauté pan, place olive oil. Add garlic, shallots and celery. Sauté 3-5 minutes or until vegetables are wilted. Add tomatoes, tomato juice and sauce and blend well into the vegetable mixture. Add chicken stock and season with thyme, basil, sugar, salt and pepper. Bring sauce to a rolling boil and reduce to simmer. Cook 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally. When ready to serve, place 2-3 ounces of the Creole sauce in the center of a serving plate. Top with the cooked trout fillet and two poached eggs. You may wish to further garnish with Hollandaise sauce and a pinch of paprika.

Posted by YatPundit at 9:56 PM | Comments (0)

May 4, 2005

Lunch Review - Maple Cafe'

In our quest to find a new meeting place for the BNI chapter I'm forming, we had lunch yesterday at Maple Cafe', which is located on Oaklawn, just off of Veterans in Metairie. The restaurant used to be Petra, then the owner, T.J. Qutob, sold the place to the folks who own Caddyshack, a bar-and-grille on Ridgelake. T.J. then worked with his brother at his place, Maple Street Cafe', uptown. I don't know the details of the story at this point, but the Caddyshack folks sold the Metairie location back to T.J., and he's re-named the place Maple Cafe'.

I haven't been to Maple Street Cafe', so my impressions are based strictly on this trip and visits to Petra. The restaurant is not very large, fifteen or so tables. The private booths that lined the wall are gone; the Caddyshack people pulled them out and installed a bar that runs the length of the wall. The room off to the side that used to be the bar in Petra is now a small (8-12) person private room. The bigger private room is still in place, and checking that out was our primary mission.

There were three of us for this outing, Steve, Al, and myself. The lunch menu at Maple Cafe' is a wide range of choices. The diner can get a full meal, appetizer to dessert, or just a sandwich or burger. The entrees were in the $8.95-$12.95 range and included soup or salad. We went with these options since that's the sort of set-up we're looking for on a weekly basis. Steve ordered shrimp and mushroom pasta, Al had the roasted chicken one of the daily specials, and I had the other daily special, Cajun Ravioli. Steve had the soup, a crabmeat bisque, Al and I had caesar salads. The salads were crisp and fresh, and Steve reported that the soup was good.

Steve's shrimp pasta was solid. This is a classic New Orleans dish--peeled raw shrimp sauteed in a little butter or olive oil, with green onions and sliced mushrooms. This is served over pasta (usually angel hair), with a bit of olive oil or melted butter drizzled over it. T.J.'s version used olive oil rather than butter, obviously a bit healthier.

Al's lunch was half of a roasted chicken, boned. It was cooked through without being dry, with an excellent crust. The chicken was served with a vegetable medley, making for a good low-carb lunch.

I had the high-carb lunch, Cajun Ravioli. This was a cheese ravioli with a tomato sauce that included very good Andouille sausage, sauteed onions, red, yellow, and green bell pepper slices. It was very good. It was a refreshing change to have ravioli served with a lighter tomato sauce.

Our waitress was attentive and kept a good stream of cap bread on the table, as well as herbed butter.

We skipped dessert, but Al did have a cup of coffee that came out hot and fresh.

We double-checked the back room, and it'll do just fine for a group of 20-30 people. T.J. said he'd work up a two-three entree menu for $15 a person inclusive, so we've got a weekly meeting place.

Posted by YatPundit at 9:15 AM | Comments (0)

Lunch Review: Andrea's Restaurant

After the debacle we experienced last Wednesday at Carmine's, Steve and I went over to Andrea's for lunch. We knew that Chef has a number of banquet rooms there, and neither of us had been there in a couple of months. What we didn't realize was that last Wednesday was "Administrative Professionals Day" (formerly known as "Secretarys Day"). Since neither of us have a secretary, this minor detail went right over our heads. The main dining room was packed, as were the two banquet rooms in the attached building. There are two smaller private rooms off to the right of the main entrance. We were seated in one of these.

The menu had all the usual dishes that Chef Andrea is known for, but he's also added an "express lunch" option. Steve ordered the catch of the day, which was grilled red snappe, and I ordered the Eggplant Parmesean.

I'm a lover of eggplant, and I rarely meet an eggplant dish I don't like, unless it's poorly cooked. Eggplant Parm is a very logical choice for an "express lunch" choice, since you can cook up a big pan of the stuff and serve it up quickly. As promised, our food came out quickly, in spite of a full dining room and two private meetings in the back. I was impressed.

My eggplant was just right--not too firm, not soggy. The cheese on top was melted but not overdone. When I put my fork to the eggplant to cut it, a whole clove of garlic was squeezed out.

Now, I can't figure out if the whole garlic was intentional. It makes sense, to toss in some whole cloves to impart flavor without overdoing the dish. If someone isn't a huge garlic fan, they can simply push the clove aside if they come across one. The garlic lover, like me, immediately sighs, praises their good fortune, and digs in.

Steve's report on the fish was favorable. Simple dishes served up in a timely manner--the hallmark of a business lunch.

The service was solid. The staff kept our iced tea glasses filled and a steady supply of crunchy Italian bread was on the table.

Overall, a good experience, even on a busy day.

Andrea's -- 19th Street and Ridgelake in Metairie.

Posted by YatPundit at 8:37 AM | Comments (0)

May 2, 2005

Podcast: Chicken Bonne Femme

Chicken Bonne Femme is a classic Creole dish that dates back to the 19th century. The basic idea is chicken served with fried potatoes. Over time, chefs in New Orleans developed variations on the basic theme, such as Chicken Clemenceau at Galatoire's, Tujagues or Antoine's, or Chicken Pontalba from Brennan's on Royal Street.

The Podcast

The Recipes: Chicken Bonne Femme, Chicken Clemenceau Delmonico, Chicken Pontalba

Chicken Bonne Femme

Recipe from Tom Fitzmorris, this one is representative of the dish as served at Antoine's or Tujagues. Add more garlic to accurately represent the Tujagues version.

Ingredients 4 slices bacon, cut into 1 inch squares
2 chickens, about 3 1/2 lbs., quartered
2 Tbs. flour
1/2 cup ham, cut into tiny dice
1 cups chopped green onion tops
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms
1 cup dry white wine
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp. Tabasco
2 lbs. white potatoes, peeled and diced
Vegetable oil for frying
1 stick butter
8 cloves garlic, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

1. Fry the bacon in a large skillet until crisp, then remove. Drain excess fat, leaving about a teaspoon. 2. Dust (don't dredge) chicken quarters lightly with flour. Raise the heat to high and brown the chicken pieces on all sides. Remove the chicken pieces and keep warm. 3. In the same pan saute the ham, green onions, and yellow onions until the latter turn translucent. Add mushrooms, wine, Worcestershire, and Tabasco, and bring it up to a boil. After a minute, lower to a simmer. 4. In a separate skillet, fry the potatoes in 390-degree oil until very lightly browned. Drain them well and add to the ham, onions, etc. (The bonne femme garnish.) 5. Continue simmering sauce until all of the liquid is absorbed; lightly stir to distribute ingredients. Remove from heat. 6. Heat the butter in a small saucepan until it starts bubbling. Lower the heat, skim the foam off, and add the garlic. Cook the garlic in the hot butter for about a minute. 7. Put the chicken pieces in a broiling pan. Spoon the bonne femme garnish over and between the chicken pieces. Spoon the garlic butter over and salt and pepper the lot. Crumble the bacon over the top. 8. Put the pan into a preheated 400-degree oven and cook for 7-12 minutes. Turn the pieces, redistribute the sauce, and bake for another 5-7 minutes. If the white meat is cooked, remove it from the pan and keep warm. Continue cooking the leg quarters until the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced. Return the breasts to the mixture, and serve with lots of the garnish. Serves four.

Chicken Clemenceau Delmonico

From Emeril's Delmonico on St. Charles Avenue

* 1 fryer, about 3 1/2 pounds
* Drizzle of olive oil
* Salt
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 1 tablespoon butter
* 1/2 pound Smithfield Ham, julienned
* 1/2 cup minced onions
* 2 teaspoons chopped garlic
* 1/2 pound assorted Exotic mushrooms, stemmed, cleaned and sliced
* 1/2 pound green peas
* 1/2 pound brabant potatoes (small diced blanched potatoes that are fried until golden)
* 3 tablespoons white vinegar
* 3 tablespoons white wine
* 10 peppercorns, crusted
* 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
* 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
* 3 egg yolks
* 1 cup unsalted butter, melted
* 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley leaves


Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Season the chicken with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place on a roasting pan and bake for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees F. and continue to cook for 30 minutes. In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the ham and saute for 2 minutes. Add the onions. Saute for 1 minute. Add the garlic and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Saute for 2 minutes. Add the peas and potatoes. Saute for 3 to 4 minutes. In a saucepan, combine the vinegar, wine, peppercorns, shallots, and tarragon. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce to 1 tablespoon. Add 1 tablespoon of water. Add the egg yolks and whisk, over low heat, until frothy, about 3 to 4 minutes. In a steady stream, add the butter until the sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper. Strain the sauce through a chinois and set aside. Remove the chicken from the oven and carve into 4 pieces (2 breast and 2 leg/thigh). To serve, spoon the potato mixture on the bottom of each plate. Lay the individual chicken portions on top of the potatoes. Spoon the Bernaise Sauce over the chicken and serve.

Yield: 4 servings

Chicken Pontalba

The Brennan's recipe, via www.gumbopages.com

* 2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup butter
* 3/4 teaspoon salt
* Dash of pepper
* Water for poaching
* 8 chicken breasts, boned, skinned and halved
* 4 tablespoons garlic, finely chopped
* 2 cups white onions, chopped
* 2 cups green onions, chopped
* 1-1/2 cups boiled ham, chopped
* 2 cups mushroom, sliced
* 1-1/2 cups diced potatoes, deep fried about 2 minutes
* 3 tablespoons parsley, chopped
* 3/4 cup white wine
* 3 cups Bearnaise sauce

In a large saute pan or skillet put in the 2 tablespoons butter, salt, pepper, and add about 1/4 inch water to the pan. Bring this poaching liquid to the boil, add breasts, cover, lower heat and simmer 15 minutes or until the breasts are done. With a slotted spoon remove the breasts and keep warm in 175 degree oven. Discard the poaching liquid.

In another sautepan or skillet, melt the remaining butter and saute the garlic, onions, ham and mushrooms until they are brown. Add the wine and reduce by one-third. Add fried potatoes and parsley and cook 2 minutes. Remove and keep warm in the oven.

To assemble the Pontalba, put 1/8 of the potato/ham mixture in the center of the plate. Place on each side of the mixture one half of a chicken breast. Top each breast with a generous amount of Bearnaise sauce.

Yield: 8 servings.

Posted by YatPundit at 5:50 PM | Comments (1)